Marie, Marthe, Regina and Joséphine Callot
About
the designers
In 1895 the four daughters of a Parisian antique dealer named Callot, their names being Marie, Marthe, Regina and Josephine, set up a salon on rue Taitbout, where they worked with antique laces and ribbons to fashion shirtwaists (blouses) and lingerie. Their father had been a painter and teacher of design, and their mother a lace maker.
Gradually the sisters formed a Couture house making all manner of wonderful garments. Although their married names were different, they called their salon Callot Soeurs (Sisters). In 1914 they moved to grander quarters in Avenue Matignon.
The Look
Their period gowns included pannier skirts and delicate floral patterns, pointed bodices, garnished with Alencon lace ruffles, after the style of Louis XV. They worked with exquisite and unusual materials, like rubberized gabardine and Chinese silks, with Orientalism a favourite theme. Callot Soeurs supplied day clothes, lingerie, dresses made from antique fabrics, period gowns, clothes made of lace, fine embroidered garments and exotic or Oriental gowns. Their clothes were known for their exotic detail, kimono sleeves, tasselled girdles, panels of embroidered satin or velvet, medallions, etc. Their lingerie was extraordinarily feminine, nightgowns and chemises of gossamer silks, worked with bands of golden lace or bouquets of silk flowers. They were among the first designers to use lame to make dresses. Silver and gold lame dresses were very popular in the 1910's and 1920's. For evening wear Callot Soeurs designed heavy satin gowns. Their designs were popular with actresses and international hostesses.