Maria Calderara

Just like an architect, Calderara has a firm grasp on the whole project’s smallest details, but at the same time she gets rid of any obvious grid by freely mixing elements which are high and low, sophisticated and poor, perfectly finished and raw, indifferently. Her starting point is natural fabrics at their most brutal pureness – cotton, wool, silk – which gain a completely new meaning via asymmetrical cuts, artful wrinkling, torsions and dyeing; the result is fluid, sinuous, unpredictable and utterly un-obvious pieces oozing a deceptively casual allure. Maria Calderara’s clothing collections are timeless, light and assertive all at once; her cleverly precious jewels, mounted on raw-edged ribbons or embroidered on coarse pieces of wool, read like unpredictable accumulations of stones chosen for their organic irregularity as opposed to perfection, even when super-precious like the black Tahiti pearls.